Protecting your strawberries

To stop rabbits, squirrels, birds, and other animals in the area consider getting a sonic deterrent.  You can buy one here:  https://amzn.to/49dv7ld

You will also need a strawberry stand to keep them off of the ground so ground bugs do not get them: https://amzn.to/4dp5xMC

In order to keep regular bugs and snails from eating them, you want to order diatomaceous earth: https://amzn.to/4v339RB

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1. Choose the Right Growing System and Timing for Georgia

• North Georgia: Use the matted-row system. Plant in spring; harvest the following spring. Allow runners to fill in the bed for a perennial patch that can last several years (renovate annually after harvest).
• Middle and South Georgia: Use the annual hill system (often better due to disease pressure like anthracnose). Plant in fall (ideally mid-September to early November). Harvest in spring, then replant the next fall. This treats strawberries more like an annual crop.

• Pick a spot with full sun (at least 6–8 hours daily, ideally 8–10 for best yields).
• Soil should be well-drained, fertile, and slightly acidic (pH 5.5–6.8). Avoid heavy clay or very sandy spots without amendments.
• Test your soil for nutrients, pH, and nematodes (common in Georgia). Amend with compost or organic matter. Raised beds or mounds help with drainage.

• Chandler and Camarosa → Excellent for the annual hill system (large, sweet berries; Chandler often more productive in north Georgia).
• Sweet Charlie → Versatile early-season option that works in both systems.
• Others like Earliglow, Allstar, or Delmarva for specific seasons.
   

• Space plants 12–18 inches apart (rows 3–4 feet apart for matted row).
• Set plants so the crown (where leaves emerge) sits right at soil level—not buried (causes rot) and not exposed (dries out).
• Water deeply after planting.

• Watering: Provide 1–1.5 inches of water per week (more during fruiting). Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy—shallow roots dry out fast. Use drip irrigation under mulch for efficiency.
   

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• Mulching: Essential! Use straw, pine straw, or black plastic. It keeps berries clean, retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and reduces slugs. Apply after planting or in late winter/early spring.
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  Fertilizing: Follow soil test results. Generally, use a balanced fertilizer (like 10-10-10) at planting and again after harvest or during growth. Avoid over-fertilizing nitrogen late in the season.
• Runners: In the first year (matted row), remove early blooms to build strong plants. Pinch or manage runners depending on your system—too many crowd the bed and reduce fruit size.
• Weeds: Hand-pull or hoe regularly; mulch helps a lot.

• Birds: The biggest pest—use bird netting once berries start coloring.
• Common issues: Anthracnose (worse in hot, humid weather), botrytis fruit rot (in wet conditions), slugs, and leaf diseases. Buy clean plants, ensure good airflow/drainage, and remove old foliage. Fungicides may be needed in rainy springs—check with your local UGA Extension office.
   

  fieldreport.caes.uga.edu
• In hot Georgia summers, provide some afternoon shade if plants stress.

• Pick berries when fully red and ripe (usually 30 days after bloom). Harvest every couple of days.
• For perennial patches: After harvest, renovate by mowing leaves (high to protect crowns), narrowing rows, thinning plants, and fertilizing.

• Strawberries grow well in containers, hanging baskets, or strawberry jars if you have limited space—just ensure excellent drainage and frequent watering.
• In the first year, you may get a smaller crop—patience pays off with bigger yields later.
• Companion planting or rotating beds helps avoid soil-borne diseases.